5 Things You Should Know --

About Deli Meats

written by Phil Lempert the Supermarket Guru

Cooked, sliced meats, also known as deli, lunch meats or cold cuts, are a boon to brown baggers looking for simple fillings for sandwiches, and easy-to-serve choices for parties and family gatherings. Basically, they're just slices of sausages in one form or the other. You can buy them already sliced in vacuum packs, or have them sliced to order at a deli counter.

Take a look the next time you are in the dairy department (where you can find these prepackaged and hanging on hooks) or in the ready to slice deli section, and you'll find scores of varieties including: beerwurst, bologna, pepper loaf, olive loaf, capocollo, chicken breast, chicken roll, corned beef, devon sausage, ham, head cheese (which isn't cheese at all, but made from the head parts of a hog which are cooked together with gelatin and spices), liverwurst, pastrami, prosciutto, roast beef, salami, pepperoni, summer sausage, turkey breast and turkey roll. If you are unfamiliar with a type of deli meat, ask for a sample – sometimes the flavoring or texture might be a surprise (either good or bad) and in this category it is always wise to try a sample before you buy!

The 5 Things You Need to Know

  1. There are three types of cold cut meat and poultry products:
  • Whole cuts of meats or poultry that are cooked and then sliced (for examples: roast beef, corned beef, turkey breast), sectioned and formed products and processed products.  Whole cuts are exactly what they sound like – a section of meat or poultry that has been cooked, possibly flavored with salt, spices or sugars that are then sliced. Typically these are the more expensive type of cold cuts.
  • Sectioned and formed meat products are restructured meat products – such as multi part turkey breasts or cooked hams. They are prepared from chunks or pieces of meat and are bonded together to form a single piece. The substances that bind these together are non meat additives, meat emulsions and extracted myofibrillar proteins. Typically they are produced by extracting the meat proteins (by adding salt and massaging or tumbling the meat which brings these "sticky" proteins to the surface) or by adding non meat proteins. Myosin is the major protein that is extracted. The meat becomes soft and pliable and is then shaped through the application of force using different molds or casings. It is then cooked to coagulate the proteins which bind the chunks of meat together in its new shape.
  • Processed meats (sausages) are the majority of what we call cold cuts. About 15% of all meat produced in the U.S. is used to make these which number at over 200 varieties. Sausage manufacturing includes any type of meat that is chopped, seasoned and formed into a symmetrical shape – for example, bologna. There are two methods for preparing the ingredients: emulsion prepared where the meat is finely chopped and the hydrophobic proteins react with fat, the opposite protein, and the hydrophilic will react with water to hold fat in the solution (bologna, Vienna sausages, hot dogs) ... and non emulsion which typically are coarser grinds. The same basic technology is used as for sectioned and formed meat products but with no tumbling and massaging required. There are several meat sources for sausages including beef, pork, mutton, veal, and poultry; meat by-products are also used some times like lips, tripe, pork stomachs and heart.
  1. Read the fine print. 
One of the questions I'm most asked about has to do with "nitrates" or "nitrites" that are listed in the ingredients on some cold cut packages.  Sodium Nitrite helps prevent the growth of Clostridium botulinum, which can cause botulism in humans and is also used alone or in conjunction with sodium nitrate as a color fixative in cured meat and poultry products (bologna, hot dogs, bacon). During the cooking process, nitrites combine with amines naturally present in meat to form carcinogenic N-nitroso compounds. It is also suspected that nitrites can combine with amines in the human stomach to form N-nitroso compounds. These compounds are known carcinogens and have been associated with cancer of the oral cavity, urinary bladder, esophagus, stomach and brain.

Research in Sweden found that Swedes who ate on average 3 ounces of processed meat each day had a 15 percent greater chance of developing stomach cancer than those who consumed 2 ounces or less. The Cancer Research Center of Hawaii and the University of Southern California reported in the Journal of the National Cancer Institute (2005;97:1458-65) that they studied 190,000 people, ages 45 to 75, for seven years. Those who ate the most processed meat (bacon, ham, cold cuts) had a 68% higher risk of pancreatic cancer than those who ate the least. "Most" was defined as at least 0.6 ounce processed meat, 1 ounce beef or 0.3 ounce pork per 1,000 calories consumed.  Dietitians suggest that you can help reduce the possible cancer-causing effects of sodium nitrite by consuming protective antioxidants before meals, such as vitamin C and vitamin E. But, remember, no vitamin offers 100% protection.
  1. The Danger of Cold Cuts: Listeria
No doubt you'll remember the story about some lunch meat products being recalled for Listeria contamination. It happened almost ten years ago when 35 million pounds of hot dogs and processed luncheon meats were recalled following an outbreak when almost 100 people in 22 states became ill, and 20 people died. It's a serious food safety issue that you need to pay attention to. Since the outbreak regulations have been changed and include the safety precaution that food processors must now hold more product, and for a longer time, if a sample tests positive for Listeria, to prevent the distribution of potentially contaminated foods.

Listeriosis is an infection caused by eating food contaminated with the bacterium Listeria monocytogenes, with an estimated 2,500 persons in the US becoming seriously ill and 500 of these resulting in death each year. The disease affects primarily pregnant women (who are 20 times more likely to become infected and develop a severe illness), newborns, and adults with weakened immune systems. The symptoms include fever, muscle aches, and sometimes gastrointestinal symptoms such as nausea or diarrhea. If infection spreads to the nervous system, symptoms such as headache, stiff neck, confusion, loss of balance, or convulsions can occur. Infected pregnant women may experience only a mild, flu-like illness; however, infections during pregnancy can lead to miscarriage or stillbirth, premature delivery, or infection of the newborn. Healthy adults and children occasionally get infected with Listeria, but they rarely become seriously ill.

Listeria is killed by pasteurization and cooking; however, in certain ready-to-eat foods such as hot dogs and deli meats, contamination may occur after cooking but before packaging.  To protect against listeriosis, the government advises consumers to thoroughly cook raw animal products; thoroughly wash all food that is to be eaten raw like fruits and vegetables; keep foods to be eaten raw separate from uncooked meats, and wash hands, knives and cutting boards with hot soapy water. Also, be sure to watch out for the juices from processed meats and sausages ... it can transmit the Listeria, so wash with hot water and soap anything that comes in contact with the juices.
NOTE: On August 19, 2006 the Food and Drug Administration approved LMP 102, a bacteriophage-based product from Intralytix Inc., as a food additive to be sprayed on cold cuts before packaging. The bacteriophages are added to defend the meats from Listeria monocytogenes - the phages infect the bacteria, binding to the host and effectively killing all strains of Listeria.
  1. How Much Are You Paying For Water?
It is perfectly legal for food companies to add a water, sodium and water or even water and spices solution to many of the lunch meats including ham, roast beef and turkey; but they must be labeled clearly and state the exact percentage of solution that has been added. For example, "10% water-added," or "Contains Up To 10% Added Moisture" – which means you are paying for one pound of water for every ten pounds of meat that you buy.
Since food is sold by weight it's important to read the labels, not only for the declaration of how much water or other solution has been added, but to see where "water" is listed in the ingredients.
  1. Deli meats are highly perishable
No food lasts forever – especially when it comes to cold cuts. While some of these products have natural or chemical preservatives to extend shelf life, packaged cold cuts once opened will only last 3 to 5 days. Cold cuts sliced fresh from the deli 1-3 days if stored properly. Be sure to use an airtight plastic bag to store them and put in the coldest part of the refrigerator.

Freshness dating of processed meats is a voluntary program and not mandated by the federal government. However, if there is a date on the package, by law, it must state clearly what the date signifies:
  • "Sell by" date means nothing more than telling the store how long to display the product for sale. Never buy the product after this date.
  • "Best if used by" date means the flavor, taste and quality of the product will be at its optimum before this date. It has nothing to do with freshness or safety.
  • "Use by" date means just that – don't consume the product after this date.
Glossary of Other Terms